Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum

The Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum is a genuinely thoughtful formula for people who want retinol-style results without the redness, peeling, or restrictions that come with conventional retinoids. It won't outperform a well-tolerated 0.5% retinol serum — nothing in this category does — but for sensitive skin, dry skin, or anyone who is pregnant and still wants to address fine lines and texture, it's one of the more credible options at this price point.

What's in it?

The two headline ingredients are squalane and bakuchiol, and both earn their place here. Squalane is a stabilised, lightweight version of squalene — a lipid your skin naturally produces but gradually makes less of as you age. Biossance sources theirs from sugarcane, which is a more sustainable alternative to the shark liver oil that was historically used. In practical terms, squalane is one of the most skin-compatible moisturising ingredients that exists. It absorbs without greasiness, doesn't clog pores, and helps repair the skin barrier. The evidence for squalane as a skin-softening, barrier-supporting ingredient is well established. The more interesting ingredient is bakuchiol, a plant extract derived from the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). It's been marketed as a retinol alternative for years, and unlike a lot of marketing claims, this one has some legitimate research behind it. A randomised clinical trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019 — one of the most widely cited studies in this space — found that 0.5% bakuchiol applied twice daily produced comparable reductions in fine lines and wrinkles to 0.5% retinol over 12 weeks, with significantly less dryness and irritation reported in the bakuchiol group. That's meaningful. It does not mean bakuchiol is equivalent to prescription-strength retinoids, and the evidence base is still modest compared to the decades of research behind retinol. But for an over-the-counter retinol alternative, the support is more solid than most. Biossance does not disclose the exact concentration of bakuchiol in this formula, which is a limitation. The overall evidence quality for this product is moderate — good enough to take seriously, not strong enough to make sweeping claims.

Who is it for?

This serum is best suited to people with dry, sensitive, or normal skin who are starting to notice early signs of ageing — fine lines, slightly uneven texture, a loss of that plump, hydrated look — and want to address them without triggering irritation. If you've tried retinol before and found it too harsh, or if you've been put off trying it altogether because of what you've heard about the purging and peeling phase, this is a reasonable entry point into the retinoid-adjacent space. It's also one of the few anti-aging serums that is considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding, since bakuchiol does not carry the same safety concerns as synthetic retinoids. This isn't a general skincare recommendation for all pregnant people — always check with your healthcare provider — but the absence of vitamin A derivatives makes it a more viable option. Age-wise, this is likely most relevant for anyone in their late 20s to 50s dealing with early to moderate signs of skin ageing. If you're in your early 20s and your main concern is prevention rather than correction, you might find simpler formulas at lower price points do the job just as well.

Who might want to skip it?

If your skin tolerates retinol well, there's no compelling reason to switch to bakuchiol — you'll likely see faster, more significant results from a well-formulated retinol or retinaldehyde serum. Bakuchiol is a gentler option, but gentler tends to mean slower and less potent in practice. Oily or acne-prone skin should approach this product with some caution. Squalane is generally non-comedogenic and often works well for oily skin, but oil-based serums aren't universally well tolerated by breakout-prone skin types, and your individual response is hard to predict. If you're dealing with active acne, there are more targeted formulas worth considering first. People looking for brightening or hyperpigmentation correction won't find much help here — that's not what this formula is designed to do. And if you're hoping for dramatic, fast results, you're likely to be disappointed. Bakuchiol works gradually, and expecting visible changes in less than eight to twelve weeks is unrealistic.

How to use it

One of the practical advantages of bakuchiol over retinol is that it doesn't degrade in sunlight, so you can use this serum morning, evening, or both — the 2019 clinical trial actually used twice-daily application, which is where most of the evidence sits. In the morning, apply it after cleansing and any water-based serums but before moisturiser and SPF. In the evening, the same layering logic applies: cleanser, water-based actives, this serum, then a moisturiser or facial oil on top if needed. Because this is an oil-serum hybrid, it sits toward the end of your routine rather than immediately after cleansing. Use two to three drops and press it gently into the skin rather than rubbing — it absorbs reasonably quickly for an oil. If you're new to any form of retinoid, starting with once-daily evening use for the first few weeks is sensible, even though bakuchiol is unlikely to cause irritation. Consistency over time matters more than frequency in the short term.

Value for money

At $55, this sits in the mid-range for a serum of this type, and whether it represents good value depends largely on your alternatives. If you can tolerate conventional retinol, a well-formulated 0.5% retinol serum from brands like The Inkey List or Paula's Choice will likely outperform this at a lower price point — that's the honest comparison. But if retinol is off the table for you — whether because of sensitivity, pregnancy, or personal preference — the relevant comparison is other bakuchiol products, and Biossance holds up well. The formula is clean, the squalane base is high quality, and the brand has a credible track record on ingredient transparency. You're not paying for opaque luxury markup, but you are paying a slight premium over more budget-friendly bakuchiol options like Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Serum. The difference is marginal enough that either could be justified depending on your budget. A dropper bottle of this size, used once or twice daily, should last roughly six to eight weeks — making the per-use cost reasonable.

Our verdict

The Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum does what it claims to do — it delivers a gentle, well-tolerated approach to anti-aging that's genuinely backed by more evidence than most alternatives in its category. It's not a retinol replacement for everyone, and it won't produce dramatic overnight changes, but for sensitive or dry skin types seeking gradual improvement in fine lines and texture, it's a solidly formulated choice. If your skin rules out conventional retinoids, this is one of the more trustworthy options at this price.

If you're ready to try it, you can shop this product on Amazon — it's consistently well stocked and usually ships quickly.

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